If you search for [restaurants near me] in Google Search mobile or desktop, you will see the local three pack and map but you won’t see buttons to call the restaurant or directions or a way to order online. You will not see any call to action buttons, or at least I don’t and many others do not.
Maybe you see something different, but I see what Ben Heligman sees. Ben is in Kansas, I am in New York and we both see listings (from different restaurants) without call to action buttons. Here is the screen shot Ben shared on Twitter a while back and it is still the same:
I guess Google wants you to do one more click to get to what you need to get to.
Forum discussion at Twitter.